What a pleasure it was to spend Friday, 31 July 2026 at iconic Lanzerac, joining Kim and Mira from Sun & Safari for a wonderful site inspection followed by a truly sumptuous lunch.
A special thank you to Kim and Carmen for the invitation, and to Nathan Daly, Trade & Guest Relations Manager, for taking us through this magnificent historic estate and sharing his knowledge and passion for Lanzerac.
There were many highlights during our visit, but one that particularly captivated me was seeing the first bottle of Pinotage showcased in the estate cellar.
The Birth of Pinotage
In 1961, a harvest from Lanzerac was released by Stellenbosch Farmers’ Winery under the Lanzerac label. The 1959 vintage became the world’s first commercially bottled Pinotage, forever linking Lanzerac with South Africa’s signature grape variety. It is a remarkable piece of South African wine history—and standing in the cellar where that history is celebrated makes the story all the more special.
1959 Lanzerac Pinotage
But at Lanzerac, you don’t only taste wine, you can also taste water!
Water Tasting
The Water Tasting in The Library, the first of its kind in South Africa, was led by Nico Pieterse, one of only two of South Africa’s Certified Water Sommeliers. Listening to Nico explain the different qualities and characteristics of water was fascinating. The subtle differences in taste and quality certainly opened my eyes to a whole new appreciation of what we drink—and how much the origin and composition of something as seemingly simple as water can influence the experience.
Water Tasting at Lanzerac
A Sublime Place to Stay
Lanzerac’s accommodation is every bit as impressive as its setting, with 54 individually decorated rooms and suites, each offering its own sense of character and understated elegance.
Seven larger suites feature spacious lounges with fireplaces and private terraces with pools, while five junior suites offer comfortable lounge areas and private terraces. The standard and luxury rooms are equally exquisite, providing an elegant retreat within this extraordinary estate.
And then there is the Spa—beautifully luxurious and designed as a sanctuary in which to completely unwind. It is a retreat in every sense of the word.
Spa
Yet perhaps what makes Lanzerac so special is the way everything comes together: its rich history, exceptional wine heritage, exquisite accommodation, superb cuisine, wellness experiences and breathtaking Cape Winelands setting.
This iconic estate at the tip of Africa seamlessly fuses centuries of Cape heritage with elegant, contemporary luxury—creating an unforgettable experience for the discerning traveller.
Iconic Landmark since 1958
Back in 1958 it was the well-known visionary hotelier, “Lord” David Rawdon of Rawdons Hotel Natal Midlands, Matjiesfontein, and The Marine in Hermanus, who ushered in an exciting new era when he converted the historical farm into an elegant hotel and landmark. Changing the original cellar and its surrounding buildings into bars, lounges, dining area and hotel rooms.
I have experienced this iconic landmark with many a visit over the years for a sumptuous Sunday lunch, a weekend stay and a couple of overnight stays to attend friends weddings held at Lanzerac. And after this my most recent visit, I can certainly understand why Lanzerac continues to hold such a special place among the Cape’s most celebrated estates.
There are destinations you can see, and there are destinations you can only really feel once you slow right down. The Seychelles is firmly in the second category.
I’ve been thinking about this a lot lately, especially since the arrival of some genuinely exciting small ship options in the Indian Ocean, including the gorgeous new Emerald Kaia from Emerald Cruises. It got me thinking about why the Seychelles, of all the world’s island destinations, is one where how you travel matters almost as much as where you go.
So let me tell you a little about these islands, and why arriving by sea changes everything.
The Seychelles archipelago sits in the western Indian Ocean, roughly 1,500 kilometres east of mainland Africa. It’s made up of 115 islands, ranging from the bustling granite peaks of Mahé, Praslin and La Digue to remote coral atolls so small they barely register on a map.
What makes the Seychelles unusual among tropical island destinations is the geology. The inner islands — the ones most travellers visit — are ancient granite formations, not coral atolls. They’re dramatic and textured, with boulders the size of houses tumbling into turquoise bays, and forests thick with palms and endemic birds. The outer islands are lower-lying coral territories, some almost entirely given over to nature conservation.
Nearly half the country’s land area is protected. In an archipelago where so much is set aside for nature, sticking to the water simply makes sense, especially when the inner islands are only a short cruising distance from each other.
That’s the key insight. The Seychelles isn’t built around road trips and overland transfers. It’s built around water.
Why Cruise the Seychelles?
Most travellers to the Seychelles base themselves on one island, usually Mahé or Praslin, and take day trips from there. It’s a perfectly lovely way to visit. But a cruise, particularly on a small ship, opens up a completely different experience.
Travelling by small ship allows you to visit multiple islands in a single journey, experiencing a mix of nature, culture, and history, while seeing firsthand the conservation efforts that protect this fragile environment. It’s a relaxed yet immersive way to discover the archipelago’s highlights, all while unpacking only once and leaving the logistics to someone else.
That last part is worth pausing on. Unpacking once, waking up in a new anchorage each morning, stepping off the boat directly onto a beach or into a nature reserve. No transfers, no waiting for tenders, no jostling with crowds. Just you and the Indian Ocean.
Most of the islands are only accessible by boat, and visitors often find themselves completely alone on a beautiful white sand beach or granite outcrop. That kind of solitude is increasingly rare anywhere in the world. In the Seychelles, a small ship can deliver it.
Mahé is the main island and home to the capital, Victoria, a compact and charming city with Creole architecture, a Hindu temple, and the famous clock tower modelled on the one in London. The surrounding mountains are green and dramatic, and the beaches on the west coast are among the most beautiful in the world.
Praslin is the second-largest island and home to the Vallée de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where the iconic coco de mer palm grows wild. The coco de mer produces the largest seed in the plant kingdom. It’s a strange and beautiful place, primeval in atmosphere.
La Digue is smaller still, and famously unhurried. Cars are few. Bicycles are the preferred mode of transport. The beach at Anse Source d’Argent, with its giant granite boulders rising out of shallow turquoise water, is one of the most photographed in the world, and still stops you in your tracks when you see it in person.
Curieuse Island is a nature reserve where Aldabra giant tortoises roam freely on the beach. You can walk among them.
Aride Island, the northernmost of the inner islands, is uninhabited except for conservation staff and hosts one of the most important seabird colonies in the Indian Ocean.
You come out of the water fresh from a snorkel and are astonished to find it’s lunchtime. Time has a habit of vanishing in the Seychelles.
Why Small Ships Work So Well Here
Emerald Kaia | courtesy Emerald Cruises
Large cruise ships cannot easily access the inner islands. The anchorages are shallow, the ports are small, and the whole ethos of the Seychelles is quietly at odds with the scale of a big ship arrival.
Small ships, carrying 40 to 128 passengers, change the equation entirely. They can anchor in protected bays, deploy zodiacs and tenders to reach beaches that have no jetty, and move quietly between islands without overwhelming the places they visit.
The Emerald Kaia, Emerald Cruises’ newest luxury superyacht, is a good example of what this category of ship can do in the Seychelles. Accommodating up to 128 passengers with 92 crew on board, she features a sleek megayacht-style hull, premium staterooms, spacious restaurants, and a generous wellness complex including a gym, infrared sauna, spa, and massage rooms. She repositions to the Indian Ocean to sail the Seychelles archipelago from December 2026 to March 2027.
What makes this style of ship so well-suited to the region is the crew-to-guest ratio. With 92 crew looking after 128 guests, the experience is genuinely personal, closer to a private yacht charter than a conventional cruise. More than 88 percent of the staterooms have balconies. Waking up in the Seychelles, sliding open your balcony door to the sound of the Indian Ocean, is not a bad way to start a morning.
When to Go
You can cruise the Seychelles all year round and expect balmy sailing — the temperature doesn’t fluctuate dramatically through the year. The dry season runs from April to September, with trade winds blowing from the southeast from May onwards.
The summer season, December through March, is warmer and occasionally wetter, but the sea is generally calmer on the western side of the islands, and conditions are still excellent for snorkelling and swimming. It’s also when the Emerald Kaia and several other small ships operate in the region, which is no coincidence.
South Africans are well-placed geographically for the Seychelles, with direct flights from Johannesburg and Cape Town, and a time zone just two hours ahead of SAST. It’s one of the more accessible Indian Ocean island destinations from home.
The Seychelles is a serious destination for wildlife lovers, and the cruise experience gives you access to places that day-trippers simply cannot reach.
Giant Aldabra tortoises. Rare endemic birds including the Seychelles warbler, the magpie-robin, and the black parrot found only on Praslin. Hawksbill turtles nesting on protected beaches. Whale sharks in the outer waters. Vibrant coral gardens teeming with reef fish.
One day you might be walking among tortoises on a remote atoll; the next, snorkelling above coral gardens on a completely different island. The variety, within a relatively compact sailing distance, is remarkable.
Is It Right for You?
A Seychelles cruise, particularly on a small ship, suits a particular kind of traveller. Not someone who needs a packed entertainment schedule or a casino. Someone who is happy to drift, to snorkel, to read on deck, to share dinner with a small group of like-minded people, and to wake up in a different paradise each morning.
It suits couples looking for something genuinely romantic. It suits travellers who’ve done the big ships and want something quieter. And it suits anyone who has always wanted to visit the Seychelles but couldn’t quite decide which island to choose. The answer, it turns out, is all of them.
The Indian Ocean has a soundtrack all of its own. This playlist, Island Drift, pulls together music from across the archipelagos — Seychelles, Mauritius, Madagascar, Réunion and beyond. Sega rhythms, Malagasy acoustic guitar, Creole soul. Put it on while you read, or save it for when you’re actually packing your bag.
Have you been to the Seychelles? Or is it still on your list? I’d love to hear in the comments.
Rodrigues Island, the smallest of the Mascarene Islands, takes its name from Portuguese navigator Diego Rodriguez, who sighted it in 1528. Like its sisters Mauritius and Réunion, it was uninhabited before European arrival. Formed some 1.5 million years ago, Rodrigues boasts a unique ecosystem with remarkable endemic flora and fauna. Early explorers found lush vegetation, giant reptiles, tortoises, and the now-extinct Rodrigues solitaire, a cousin of the Mauritian dodo.
Colonised by the French in 1691 using enslaved labour, the island later fell under British control after the Napoleonic Wars. Slavery was abolished in 1834. In 2002, Rodrigues gained greater autonomy with its own regional assembly and today focuses on sustainable tourism and conservation.
I arrived at 9 am on 17 September and was warmly welcomed by the delightful Clementine and the ever-charming Donald, who whisked me off to Auberge Les Filaos, my cosy first-night accommodation. After a quick change into lighter island attire, we headed to meet the wonderful Rodrigues Tourism team in Port Mathurin, housed in a character-filled 18th-century building. A big thank you to Issana Agathe for the warm welcome!
Next was lunch at La Marlin Bleu, a charming local favourite overlooking the bay – the perfect spot to savour delicious island cuisine among friendly locals.
Our afternoon was spent exploring the Grande Montagne Nature Reserve, guided by the passionate and knowledgeable Stephen. His enthusiasm for conserving Rodrigues’ rare endemic plants and birds was infectious. We spotted the colourful Rodrigues Fody, now thriving thanks to the island’s conservation efforts.
The day began with a fascinating meeting with Mr Jean Alain Wong So, Rodrigues Commissioner for Tourism and more. Then it was off to the Francois Leguat Reserve, a 20-hectare marvel replicating pre-human Rodrigues. Bernard, our guide, led us through valleys filled with giant tortoises, native birds, and flourishing endemic flora. Highlights included the magical Grande Caverne, with its ethereal limestone formations.
After a delicious seafood salad at the reserve’s restaurant and a stroll through its museum, I planted a tree as part of the “One Visitor, One Tree” project – a beautiful initiative supporting reforestation.
Later, I checked into the fabulous C Rodrigues Mourouk Hotel, greeted with a lemon cocktail and shown to a suite with breathtaking views of the turquoise ocean. After a refreshing swim and beach walk, I ended the day with a Creole buffet dinner and restful sleep in my well-appointed suite.
Day 3: Hotels, Horizons and Heartfelt Hospitality
After breakfast, Lisa gave me a tour of the hotel’s stunning villas, with direct beach access and private pools. Then it was time to say goodbye and continue exploring.
First stops: Cotton Beach Holiday Apartments and the elegant Cotton Bay Resort & Spa, where the rim-flow pool seems to merge with the ocean. The rooms, decor, and oceanfront dining areas all spell pure island indulgence.
Lunch was a highlight at Koki Boner – crab soup and octopus curry at this charming restaurant next to affordable, well-equipped holiday apartments.
Next was the intimate Tekoma Boutik Hotel – ideal for a romantic escape. With serene Creole-style decor, stunning ocean views, and gourmet cuisine, it’s a slice of paradise.
Before settling in for the evening at Gîte Le Tropical Chez Jeannette, we hiked up Mont Limone (Rodrigues’ highest point at 389m) for panoramic island views. Below the guesthouse lies Jardin des 5 Sens, the island’s first botanical garden, filled with endemic plants, some with medicinal value.
Dinner with our gracious host Gilbert and a lovely Estonian couple was filled with laughter and rich conversation – a truly memorable evening.
Day 4: Local Life and Coastal Farewells
Early the next morning, Donald and I visited two popular, fully booked hotels – Cocotier Hotel and Escales Vacances – followed by a lively stroll through Port Mathurin’s market.
Lunch at Atelier Gourmand, a charming spot just outside town, was a treat. My final night was spent at the peaceful Villa du Sud in the coastal village of Graviers. With a small pool, sea views, and fresh local cuisine, it was the perfect end to a memorable adventure.
Rodrigues – A Sparkling Jewel of the Mascarenes
That’s a wrap on my unforgettable four-night caper on Rodrigues, a pristine, warm-hearted island filled with natural beauty, rich history, and the kindest people.
Heartfelt thanks to the Rodrigues Tourism team, especially Valentine, Sophia, and Donald, for your generosity, warmth, and insight. Until next time!
Boarding the majestic Star Clipper in Piraeus on Saturday, 16 August marked the beginning of my unforgettable 7-night Star Clipper Aegean cruise, a sailing adventure through some of the most stunning ports in Greece and Türkiye. Huge thanks to #StarClippers and #CruiseVacationsSA for making it all happen!
Star Clipper Sailing
Under Starlit Sails
We set sail at 21:30 under a starlit sky, the sails rising in the breeze as we left port. Sunday offered a full day at sea. The perfect opportunity to settle in, enjoy the ship’s elegant charm, and get to know fellow passengers.
Sail away
Kusadasi & the Wonders of Ephesus
Our first port of call was Kusadasi, Türkiye, alive with energy and warm hospitality. A local guide led us to the incredible ruins of Ephesus, just 20 km away, a powerful glimpse into the ancient world with its grand theatre (once seating 24,000), temples, Roman villas, and public baths. The Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, once stood proudly here.
The Library of Celsus Ephesus
Post-excursion, we enjoyed some shopping at the local bazaar before returning to the ship for drinks and snacks at the Tropical Bar, a perfect spot to unwind and mingle.
Life On Board
Life on the Star Clipper is both relaxed and refined. Meals are served in the stylish Clipper Dining Room, where guests enjoy gourmet international cuisine, accompanied by live piano music by Sam in the Piano Bar. Themed evenings, including an Italian night, White Night, Pirate Dinner, and the glamorous Captain’s Dinner, add to the fun. The dress code is elegant-casual, with opportunities to dress up for special occasions.
The Greek Islands Unveiled
Patmos
Steeped in spiritual and historical significance, Patmos is best known as the island where the Apostle John wrote the Book of Revelations (Apocalypse). Its capital, Chora, is a charming maze of winding, cobbled streets, lined with beautifully preserved homes dating from the 15th to 18th centuries. A true gem here is the House of Simantiris, a traditional residence dating back to 1625, which has remained in the same family for over eight generations. Open to visitors, it offers a rare and intimate look into island life across the centuries, featuring antique furniture, embroidered linens, and ancestral paintings, a living museum of Patmian heritage.
Amorgos
Known for its crystal-clear beaches, whitewashed houses, and traditional windmills, Amorgos is also famous for being the filming location for Luc Besson’s The Big Blue. With tender boats running ashore every 30 minutes, it’s easy to explore this peaceful, photogenic island.
Mykonos
Our second-last port was buzzing with high-season energy. Mykonos, famous for its vibrant nightlife, luxury shopping, and celebrity beach clubs, was in full swing with major events and top DJs. After exploring its iconic white alleys, having a swim at the well-known Paradise Beach some of us returned early evening to the calm of the ship, taking the opportunity to sip a tropical cocktail while lounging at the starboard pool and soaking in the Aegean sunset.
Spetses
The final stop was the sophisticated and car-free island of Spetses. With horse-drawn carriages, elegant neoclassical architecture, and a stylish local crowd, it’s a favourite getaway for Athenians. A refreshing swim off Agios Mamas Beach, a bit of last-minute shopping, and a gelato cone in hand made for the perfect final day ashore.
A Fond Farewell
On our last night, we gathered in the dining room for a delicious final dinner, followed by a Light Show on the Sundeck and dancing under the stars at the Tropical Bar, with DJ Sam spinning classic hits that brought everyone to the dance floor. As dawn broke, we returned to Piraeus with full hearts and unforgettable memories.
A heartfelt thank you to Star Clippers, and to Gaynor Galbraith-Neill, CEO of Cruise Vacations SA, along with her exceptional team, Ilse Stols and Nicky Heyne, for curating such a remarkable experience.
Brian Currin at Montreux station, the Grand Hotel in the background | photo: Chris Currin
We all came out to Montreux on the Lake Geneva shoreline
Deep purple
Some places enter your consciousness through the most unexpected channels. For me, Montreux in Switzerland wasn’t discovered through a travel guide or a friend’s recommendation – it was burned into my memory by one of the most iconic guitar riffs in rock history.
The First Spark: 1973
I was just fourteen when Deep Purple’s “Smoke On The Water” first burned itself into my brain in 1973. It was the electrifying live version from Made in Japan that absolutely devastated me – this album has secured its place among my top ten albums of all time. While I think I may have heard the live version on the radio, I know for certain the studio version dominated the airwaves, climbing to number 7 on the Springbok Radio charts and an impressive number 3 on LM Radio.
Like countless others, I found myself mesmerized by that unforgettable opening riff. But beyond the hypnotic guitar work, it was the story within the song that captivated me. The lyrics painted a vivid picture of a real event: a fire at the Montreux Casino during a Frank Zappa concert, with smoke literally drifting across Lake Geneva, and the band recording the album Machine Head using The Rolling Stones’ mobile studio truck. To my young mind, Montreux became this almost mythical place where rock legends gathered, where music history was made, and where dramatic events unfolded against the backdrop of Swiss mountains and pristine waters.
The name itself sounded exotic, sophisticated – so different from my South African suburban surroundings. Deep Purple had recorded Machine Head at the Grand Hotel in Montreux, and somehow that detail made the location feel even more legendary. Here was a band creating timeless music in what seemed like a fairy-tale setting.
Montreux sunset | photo: Chris Currin
The Long Wait
Years passed. Decades, actually. Life happened – career, family, responsibilities. Montreux remained a distant dream, a place I’d think about whenever I listened to “Smoke On The Water” in its various live versions through the years. I’d wonder if I’d ever actually see those Swiss shores that had inspired one of my favourite songs.
Travel took me to many places over the years, but somehow Montreux always felt just out of reach. Too expensive, too far, too much of a luxury. The dream stayed alive but dormant, filed away in that mental folder marked “maybe one day.”
An Unexpected Path: 2025
Sometimes life has a way of bringing things full circle when you least expect it. My son Christopher’s career took an international turn, and when he announced that he and his wife Pam would be moving to Lausanne for work, I felt a familiar flutter of excitement. Lausanne – just a short distance from Montreux along the same Lake Geneva shoreline that Deep Purple had immortalized in song.
What had seemed impossible for so many years suddenly became inevitable. A visit to my son would naturally include a pilgrimage to the place that had captured my imagination over five decades ago.
With my other son, Michael, living in The Netherlands, our family had become wonderfully scattered across Europe, creating new opportunities for connection and discovery.
Standing on the shores of Lake Geneva in Montreux for the first time was surreal. The mountains rose majestically from the water just as I’d imagined, but they were somehow more beautiful than any mental picture I’d constructed. The town was alive with energy – I had timed my family trip to coincide with the 59th Montreux Jazz Festival.
Montreux Casino | photo: Chris Currin
I walked along the lakeside promenade, past the spot where the old casino once stood (now replaced by a modern casino), and tried to imagine that night in December 1971 when everything changed. The fire, the smoke, the chaos – and later, the musical inspiration that would reach a teenage me halfway around the world.
The Montreux Jazz Festival, which had been such a draw for Deep Purple and countless other musicians, still thrives today. The town proudly celebrates its musical heritage, with a statue of Freddie Mercury overlooking the lake and tributes to the many artists who’ve found inspiration in this Alpine paradise.
Statue of Freddie Mercury | photo: Chris Currin
Full Circle
What struck me most was how the reality of Montreux enhanced rather than diminished the mystique I’d carried for so long. Yes, it was a real place with real people, real shops, and real daily life. But it was also everything I’d hoped it would be – a place where natural beauty and musical history intertwined in the most beautiful way.
Montreux as seen from the ferry | photo: Chris Currin
My sons, amused by their father’s long-standing obsession with this particular Swiss town, joined me for a walk along the shoreline. As we strolled, I found myself humming that familiar riff, and for a moment, I was that teenager again, discovering Montreux through the magic of rock and roll.
The journey from first hearing “Smoke On The Water” to actually standing by those Swiss waters took fifty-two years. But some dreams are worth the wait, especially when they arrive through the most unexpected and wonderful circumstances – like a son who chose to follow a work opportunity in the shadow of the Alps, unknowingly completing a circle that began with a guitar riff and a story about smoke drifting across a lake.
Sometimes the universe has a sense of timing that’s far better than our own.
Chris, Brian, Pam & Michael at the Vinyl Bar, Montreux | photo: Chris Currin
